
Where we last left off, we had just spent the morning talking to second Maura. Shortly after, as you can guess, we stopped in to an internet cafe, wrote up a blog, and posted pictures. Today was the day for the Dingle peninsula, one of the peninsulas just north of the Kerry peninsula. After talking a while to pack up, shower, rest, talk to Maura and a couple of hours in the internet cafe we didn't have a whole lot of time left. Such is the ways of vacationing (as opposed to traveling). Brings me back to the days we visited Prague when we had literally half-day bed-ins then went out and explored the town during the evening. Sometimes you just have to take that time you need to just relax and enjoy being with each other. Luckily, the dingle peninsula is one of the smaller ones, which gave us plenty of time to explore.
We spent the day driving through small villages reminiscent of Vermont, almost everything independently and locally owned, and everyone was friendly and inviting. In amazing contrast to Vermont, there are no property taxes in Ireland. This is incredible in that the rich cannot move in, make the taxes go up, and force the poor out of an area. Rather, in Ireland, you own your land forever, cost free. Heavy restrictions on building also keep the countryside from flooding with houses. Whether it is a way to preserve the nation’s identity, keep the rich out, or protect the way of life of the poor, it sustains these independent villages.
Between the villages were green-hill covered stone walled fields set against the deep blue of the ocean. It was a gorgeous drive, especially relaxing while all of the tourists were driving the Kerry peninsula. The drive takes you on a path up and over a mountain, called Connor’s Pass. This particular path also has a pull off car park where you can get out and look over the glorious scenery below. There were a couple of people up the other side of the road, up against the mountain. In an effort to be able to see more of the landscape below, we began to climb up with them. By climb, I don’t mean mountain climbing, but rather slightly steeper than stair climbing with a higher step.
As we climbed, there started to appear a gap where the mountainside seemed to level off, curious is to what this might be, we kept going. Eventually, we were awestruck by a beautiful lake providing the source for the waterfall. Good thing I told Joni not to drink from the ‘mountain spring’ as we don’t know the source. We were on top of the world, and not just any world, but the green limestone covered mountainside of Ireland, by a pristine calming lake, protected by a circular shaped mountainside.
At once, we knew that we couldn’t just keep driving, but had to stop and camp. What a place to spend the evening! We climbed around the rock there and tried to find a site that was protected from the wind, the tourists, and the possibility of water running down the mountainside in the event of rain. A lot of the grass was a marsh where a wrong step could send your entire foot into cold mud. Nevertheless, we found a spot, partially sloped (15 declination) that would suit our needs. We were excited! Our camping adventure, worthy of forcing Juli to bring us our tent all the way from Vermont and us trekking it back from Italy; A night worthy of christening our previously unused tent.
We headed back to the last village with the grocery store and picked up a bag of kindling, some potatoes, butter, an onion, and some tin foil. Then we headed back to the car park to pack our bags. We were a little bit worried of leaving our brand-new rental car by the side of the road abandoned for the evening. Nevertheless, we grabbed our laptops and camping gear and shoved everything else in the back behind the rear seats. It took a while to climb the mountainside with our gear, but not long to set up the tent. We then started to build a small fire by stripping the kindling with a knife and doing a lot of blowing. Joni wrapped up several potatoes in tin foil independently while I built the fire and we started these cooking. We then cut up the rest of the potatoes and onion; threw in a bunch of butter and wrapped the whole bundle in more foil. We threw this on the fire, rotated it a couple of times and headed back to view the sunset.
Now, you should understand something about Joni and campfire food. Joni doesn’t have a good track record. To her defense, she only cooked over a campfire for me once before. When we first met, she tried to make something similar while we camped around New England. However, the tinfoil was punctured and it didn’t cook long enough, and was never rotated; so half of the potatoes were raw-inedible, half were burned inedible and the little bit that was edible contained a quite a bit of sand. So she tried extra hard to make up for that experience, and the results paid off. We had the most delicious campfire food I have ever eaten. We sliced the little potatoes part way through and stashed in some butter and garlic cream cheese. Once we were through those, we put the rest of the cream cheese in the big package and stirred. Everything was deliciously well cooked with the perfect consistency. Well done!
After we were done cooking and eating, it was starting to get cold and darker so we headed inside the tent. We watched as the fog came down from the tips of the mountains so that more and more of the mountain was removed from view. This made us realize that climbing down to the car was going to be difficult to near impossible until morning. We snuggled up and went to bed. The ground was a big lumpy in spots, but I did ok. Unfortunately, Joni had some trouble as her sleeping bag kept sliding down the declination, but I will let her tell you about that, perhaps in a rant. It got cold during the evening, but we just tucked ourselves into our sleeping bags and faired well.
It took us a while to get going in the morning. It took about an hour to pack up camp and head down the mountainside. To our relief the car was still there and untouched. There were some tourists that saw us come down but they didn’t’ seem to react to us at all. Once all the stuff was in the car and we had eaten a little bit of snacks, we were ready to go.
Comments
Annoyance
It was really really hard to sleep that night. Although beautiful, the hillside that we slept on was not flat. My silk sleeping bag would not stay in one place, no matter what I did. It was like trying to sleep on a slip and slide. If I layed in any position other than on my back, I'd end up in a pile at the bottom of the tent. The only reason that my back worked was that I could put my feet on a water bottle at the foot of the tent, and perch myself, completely stretched out. This would cause my back and legs to fall asleep though, so it didn't really work for me. By the time it started getting light out, I figured out that I could throw myself, atop my pillow like a beached whale, and it allowed me slide only half-way down the tent and I was able to catch a few hours of sleep.
The other problem was that I got a little freaked out. Now I don't normally tend to be superstitious, but I can get a bit illogical at times. While the fog was descending the mountains, I convinced myself that there were bashees in dem der hills. Which also made it a bit difficult to sleep, no matter how much John tried to convince me that as banshees were forest dwelling creatures, and that A. we weren't in a forest and B. all of Ireland's forests had been deforested at one time, thus the banshees were exitinct, therefore there would be no trouble from Banshees, it did not stop me from pulling my mummy-like sleeping bag up around my head, and burying my head in John's shoulder.
Lovely.
Thanks for this blog. It sounds just lovely. Can you mark the precise location on a map. I would like to go back there and snuggle in a sleeping bag with the fog decending and the campfire popping.
*Sigh*
Completely gorgeous. We will definitely point it out to you. Bring a tarp and good hiking shoes, though, its a wee bit moist. Slea Head is another place that I wished we'd camp. It was gorgeous. Surrounded by ocean on 3 sides, with cliffs and a meadow with sheep. *sigh*
it's pictured on the Photo du Jour for today.
Hobos!!!
Yummy. I have never used butter in hobos, ussually a creamed soup with the potatoes, carrots and onions. I think that is the mid-western in me. cover everything up with a grey, creamy substance with chunks of unrecognizable stuff in it. Joni, I am glad you redemed your campfire cooking reputation. I am proud.
Cream Soup
My family loves Hobos! I even make them at home once in awhile in the oven. I have been putting sliced bratwurst in them. So good!
Last year at family Cub Scout camp, each family made a foil wrapped dinner. I hate to say it, but my "midwest, smothered in cream soup" hobos were the envy of the party. I am glad your butter method worked out. I think I've made them that way too but not with great results.
more on Cream soup
Although decidedly gross in soup form, cream of * soups do make good casseroles. I haven't had cream of * soups since we moved to Minnesota last summer. Jaci H A T E S them.
The butter thing was really more out of necessity, but I think it's my preferred method now, when combined with garlic cream cheese. It's less heavy than the cream soup variety of Hobo, and it seemed to cook more evenly.
WHERE EVER DID YOU GET THAT IDEA?!?
No, I LOVE CREAMED SOUPS!!!! I really do. I love all of those yummy dinners smothered in ewy gooey goodness. Tuna casserole, hash brown casserole, scalloped potatoes, green bean casserole, tator tot casserole, campfire hobos, turkey boats, chicken pot pie.....
I would love to make them all the time. But I have found that eating creamed soup recipes makes for a healthier, thinner, happier self.
So I try to keep only one can of creamed soup in my cupboard for an emergency meal or for a "special occasion." My friend just thinks that I am about the weirdiest person in the world to consider creamed casseroles "special" but that's what I have to do!
REALLY?!?
I really thought that you HATED them, LOATHED them....
I think that I could quite possibly go the rest of my life without them, although I think that they are okay...
What makes them so unhealthy?
Creamed glop...
They are full of fats, sodium, calories, and lots of man made ingredients.... With virtually no redeemable qualities. See:
Cream of Mushroom Soup
Serving size: 1/2 cup
Amount Per Serving:
Calories 100
Total Fat 6g
Sat. Fat 1.5g
Cholesterol 5mg
Sodium 870mg
Total Carb. 9g
Dietary Fiber 2g
Sugars 1g
Protein 1g
% Daily Values**
Vitamin A 0%
Vitamin C 0%
Calcium 0%
Iron 0%
Definately not a power food. (But oh soooooo tasty!)
Campfire food
I remember having my first experience with campfire food. It was VERY similar to yours, only I was about 13 at the time. 1/2 of the food was uncooked, the other was burnt to a crisp, we had been up ALL night hiking (I believe in the rain), and I was starving.
The whole tin foil meal was the most discusting thing I've ever eaten. As a result, I will not put food directly into the fire.
I guess, if done properly it can turn out delicious!